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If style pundits were in any doubt as to the status of the rockabilly hair revival that has been gradually gaining momentum over the last two years, then the display of 30s, 40s and 50s-inspired retro hair at the menswear shows this year was the final proof they needed. Designers including the likes of Jil Sander and Thomas Maier at Bottega Veneta sent out model after model sporting playful quiffs accessorised with rockabilly string ties and greaser gear. The message was undeniable: rockabilly – specifically rockabilly hair – is back and we can comfortably add it to the list of men’s 2010 hair trends.

Bottega Veneta Autumn / Fall 2010

When you think of the rockabilly haircut images of James Dean, Elvis Presley and John Travolta in Grease immediately spring to mind. The hairstyle constituted slick back hair (hence the name ‘greaser’). The top was kept longer in length as was the back and the sides were short and the hair could be parted, slicked back or pompadour. The ‘ducktail’ (also known as the ‘duck’s ass’ or ‘D.A’) is another variation where a central part runs down the head with the side sections curled in (as shown at Bottega Veneta, above).

The rockabilly aesthetic and culture truly shook-up the traditional sensibilities of mainstream music and fashion of the post-war 50s. Gone was the wholesome identikit teenager and in was the spirit of rebellion, rock ‘n’ roll, B Movies and racy Bettie Page types. Good music wasn’t the only thing to come out of this epoch, thanks to musical icons such as Elvis and Johnny Cash and movie stars such as James Dean, the rockabilly hairstyle became huge – literally.

Not that the present incarnation of the rockabilly is the only resurgence of the hairstyle since its 50s heyday, like fashion’s ever turning cycle, rockabilly style has been on and off trend at various times since its creation. Ever ebbing and flowing, the style evolved in the 80s thanks chiefly to musical icons such as Morrissey and his ilk who gave the quiff a new lease of life. Quickly gargantuan pompadours were both gracing the covers of magazines everywhere and in turn the streets where disenfranchised youths quickly adopted the statement-making barnet.

Bottega Veneta Autumn / Fall 2010

In Japan there has been a large rockabilly subculture for some time. Stroll down to a particular downtown park in Tokyo on the right day and you’ll witness a gathering of exaggerated greaser-types treating passers-by to a variety of elaborate dance routines while lip-synching to vintage rock ‘n’ roll music, their perfect gravity-defying exaggerated quiffs moving along to the music. Even women are getting in on the act. Last year during the women’s catwalks shows models including Agyness Deyn adopted the men’s rockabilly and stars such as Pink and Rihanna have both experimented with the masculine quiff. However, the award for the heftiest version on a woman must go to La Roux whose mammoth quiff has become her style signature.

Yes, you may get cat-calls along the lines of “hey Elvis!” from the style unenlightened on the street, but experimenting with rockabilly hair shows definite style savvy.

Bottega Veneta Autumn / Fall 2010

How to create a Rockabilly hairstyle

Though high-maintenance, rockabilly hair is undeniably cool and evinces major style credentials. Some pointers:

• The classic rockabilly cut is long on top and very short on the sides and back.
• Firstly, shampoo and towel-dry your hair and then liberally apply pomade with your fingers. Choose if you want a parted greaser style, a slicked-back greaser style or a pompadour.
• Comb the hair straight back or part your hair and comb it back.
• Use your fingers to tease the front, turning any curls into defined curls. You may wish to use a little beeswax to piece out a few curls.
• If you wish to do the pompadour, you’ll want to use less grease pomade and more beeswax.
• Use your hair dryer to dry your hair straight up, using a brush to lift the hair and applying beeswax at the roots to help it stand up. Use a comb and your fingers to guide the hair back, maintaining the required volume in front.

Jil Sander Autumn / Fall 2010

For a true sky-high pompadour: straight out of the shower, put a small amount of gel in the hair and blow-dry. The trick to getting real height is to get some gel at the roots and blow dry it upside down, while bending over. Once it’s standing high, use beeswax or another firm holding gel.

How to wear it

If you want to go all-out rockabilly, then pairing your new hair with appropriate clothing and accessories is essential. The look is 50s cool using predominantly black, red and white colours. Think leather jackets, gingham, vintage bowling shirts, slacks, crepe soled shoes and obviously, jeans (preferably vintage-look Levi 501s). The current model for the neo-rockabilly look is skinny black jeans, printed tees or baggy white wife beaters, button-up shirts, skinny ties, omnipresent wayfarer sunglasses and a fitted leather jacket.

Bottega Veneta Autumn / Fall 2010

Vintage inspiration

Take inspiration from the ultimate poster-men for rockabilly hair…

Elvis Presley

The official king of the quiff – Elvis and his hairstyle was (and still is) emulated across the globe (and now, not only by cheesy impersonators). Towering and jet-black, his inimitable hair truly turned him into a global icon.

James Dean

Live fast, die young is the ethos that goes hand-in-hand with the rockabilly spirit and there’s no star that embodies this more than James Dean. Thanks to the abundance of imagery and pop culture mythology surrounding the late-actor, both he and his pompadour are with us forever.

Johnny Cash

Country music legend and one of the great pioneers of the pompadour, Johnny Cash was one of the most prominent advocates of rockabilly hair during the 1950s.

Morrissey

This charming man (see what we did there?) singlehandedly resurrected rockabilly hair during the 80s. Amazing tunes aside, Morrissey’s gravity-defying quiff was emulated by millions ensuring his place in the rockabilly hall of fame.

Danny Zuko

John Travolta as T-Bird leader Danny Zuko in Greece was all confidence and ultra-cool – essential for pulling off his black greaser pompadour.

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